The Future is Clear!

Happy new years everyone!  I have something exciting I recently discovered that I realized I had not shared here yet so figured now is a good time.

I see so many asking the question "what sealer works best on polymer clay?"  But does polymer clay really require "sealing"?  My answer:  "No it does not".  A lot of my creations have no "sealing agent or glaze" and even years later they still look good as new.  If I want a high shine, I prefer to sand and then buff with my Dremel tool.  I especially love how it feels when I touch it with my hands.  You can read more info on this if you click on the tab at the top of this blog "Polymer Clay Tips".  Here is a video of my past hubby/claymate buffing a piece with the Dremel tool.  I have the buffing pads I make myself listed in my online store here.  (right now on sale until the end of the month).

I also create pieces that I cannot sand or buff and DO require a sealing agent or glaze.  This is when I add coloring agents to the outside of my piece such as mica powders, inks or pan pastels as in the textured tube beads shown in the photo below -- my tutorial for this is here.  If the coloring materials are not sealed, they can eventually wear off over time.

Textured Tube Beads

To Glaze or Not to Glaze . . .

I wrote a blog post quite a few years ago on glazing your work (in 2010) and realized it needed an update.  So many products are constantly changing and have even been discontinued over the years.  It seems I just find a product I like and then it suddenly isn't available any more!  I am constantly in search of a better product -- not just something better to work with but that gives excellent results and is also safer for the environment.

One of the products I have been using for many years to seal my work (that has coloring agents which require sealing) is, believe it or not, "Future Acrylic Floor Finish".  I know many who have been working with polymer clay over the years are aware of this trade "secret".  Some, like myself, still use it today.  Many "newbies" are not aware of it, or when they see a photo or a reference to it, they are confused.  This is a product that was introduced into the market as far back as in the 1960's.  The bottle pictured above is of the original vintage bottle.  Over the years, the label had changed many times and was later purchased by Johnson & Johnson, thus eventually becoming "Pledge with Future" and then lastly, "Pledge Revive".

So now, Johnson & Johnson discontinued their latest product and sadly, is no longer available.

Or is it?????

Well, introducing . . . . drum roll . . . .   Quick Shine!

It is by a different company but very much the same as the original "Future Floor Finish".  I have been testing it out to see how it compares and so far, it is pretty darn close --- other than the smell.  I really didn't mind the smell of the original Future (had somewhat of a fruity odor) but this one is not as strong and slightly different, yet not objectionable -- at least not to me.

I should mention I also like to use the other glazes made for polymer clay such as the Cernit brand -- which comes in a matte finish besides glossy.  I find they are far better to use than a typical varathane.  But when working with mica powders, I still prefer to use the acrylic floor finish (now Quick Shine) for the following reasons:  

# 1 - Safer for the environment and our health!  Just compare the labels.  Quick Shine has the "Safer Choice" seal and all you have to do is look at those danger warning signs on the Varathane.

# 2 - Quick Shine has just as hard a finish as the varathane, and maybe even tougher.  After all, it is made to be used on floors which can take quite a beating.

# 3 - Cleans up easy off your hands, etc. with soap and water.

# 4 - Cost!  Quick Shine is by far way cheaper than the varathane plus the bottle size is larger as well and keeps for a very long time.

So where can you get it?  I bought mine in a hardware store in the floor care section.  You can google it to find what stores sell it in your area.  I did see it on Amazon but at double the price but if you cannot find it elsewhere, then that can always be a back-up plan.

And here are a few quick tips for working with the Quick Shine (or Future if you still have some hanging around like I do):

• Pour some Quick Shine into a small clean jar (not too much as you can top it up as needed).  This way when you are done you can tightly seal the jar to use next time.  Over time, the Quick shine can start to thicken.  If it does (reason for not too much at a time in your jar), take some paper towel to sop it up and wipe the jar out.  Discard the paper towel in the garbage and add some fresh product into your jar.

• When applying it to your piece, use a dry, soft, clean, brush.  Apply a thin, light coat to your piece.  Allow to dry and then apply a second or third coat if necessary.  It is better to do several thin coats than one thick one to prevent streaking, etc.  It will also make the finish more durable. Wash your brush out with soap and water before it dries and hardens.

• After your pieces have dried, they can be "heat-set" by baking again but this time at a much lower temperature (200 F or 100 C) for 15-20 minutes.  Also be sure to place the pieces in a pan that has a cover or tightly cover with tin foil to prevent any fumes from escaping (just in case).

So lastly, if you prefer, you can always use other glazes that are created just for polymer clay such as Sculpey or Cernit.  I quite like the Cernit glaze and like how it also comes in a matte finish besides glossy.  These both also recommend "heat-setting" which makes them more durable.  I haven't used them for sealing mica powders as of yet but have another special use which I will share with you in another post later sometime.

To Glaze or Not to Glaze - That is the Question!

On several polymer clay guild forums there has been much discussion lately on glazes -- what type to use, what works best, what technique works best.  Since I include finishing techniques in my last three tutorials (Double-sided Textured Beads, Textured Tubes & More, Making Beautiful Buttons), it got me thinking about sharing more in depth on this topic what we use for finishing our pieces and why.

The first question is to glaze or not to glaze?

This all depends on the type of finish you want.  A lot of polymer artists prefer their pieces to be natural and unglazed.  We prefer that at times ourselves -- it all depends on the individual piece and the finished look we are aiming for.  You can get a nice sheen by buffing with a soft cloth or towel and you can also get a high shine if you buff with some sort of buffing wheel.  If you are aiming for this... your piece needs to have a very smooth finish.  This involves sanding your work with different grits of wet/dry sandpaper.  I have also found that the smoother your clay is before baking, the less sanding you will have to do afterwards.  Some people finish with 1000 grit sandpaper, others go up to 1500 or 2000.  I have found that there isn't too much difference in smoothness or shine above 800 grit so it is all a matter of what clay you are working with and your own preference.

Then there is the type of buffing wheels to use.  Dave and I were on a hunt some time ago looking for just the right buffing tool that wouldn't break the bank.  Some of our clay colleagues had fabulous buffing machines that were to drool over but we decided to go simply and make more use of the tools like our dremel, we already had.  I read up on Desiree McCrory's site about her new buffing pad and so we went on a hunt to find the right fabric to make our own.  It is a simple concept but does a beautiful job and leaves a really high sheen!  We use a drill press stand so it frees both hands to buff making it  easier and safer to use.  If you are interested in buffing pads already made, I have them available for sale here.

To Glaze ..... the How and Why.....

Update:  Sorry the PYM11 is no longer manufactured or available any longer.  It was a great product and if I find out it is back on the market, I will update again here.

So if you prefer to glaze your pieces, many have asked which one do you use and what works best.  This is something that is a little different for everyone but I will share with you what we have learned  from our past experiences.

Some polymer clay techniques using inks, mica powders or chalks, require some sort of glaze finish in order to protect them from wearing off.  One of the newest type of glazes that polymer clay artists have discovered is the PYM11 (Preserve Your Memories 11).  This is amazing stuff and works well as a  sealing agent, especially if you are using inks or mica powders.  It leaves a soft matte finish so if you prefer your piece to be glossy, you can use PYM11 as a sealer and then coat with Future acrylic afterwards.

PYM11 is only available as an aerosol spray so is a more difficult to use on smaller type beads.  It also has a very strong odor so you will want to use this outdoors in the fresh air so you do not breathe in the fumes.

How to Use:  Lay your pieces out onto a paper lined tray.  Spray your pieces very lightly.  Allow to dry  (a few minutes) and then turn your tray around so you are spraying from the opposite direction and give a light spray again.  Turn your pieces over and repeat for the other side.

Pro:  Makes a great sealer when using mica powders, chalks and especially inks. (See note below)

Con:   Only available in an aerosol spray so is a little more difficult to use on smaller type beads.

Type of Finish:  soft matte

Diamond Wood Finish by Flecto is the only type of varathane we consider safe to use with your polymer clay. We have tried various other brands (such as Minwax acrylic) and discovered they are not all the same.  They would peel and wear off and I'm glad we only experimented with them in a small way first.

The Diamond by Flecto is available in glossy, semi-gloss and satin finishes.  It is also available in an aerosol spray which is great for larger type surfaces.  In many of our pieces like our animal prints, we prefer to use semi-gloss as it actually gives more of a soft satin gloss look and isn't overly shiny.  I fill a small jar to use from instead of using it straight from the can.  If it gets a little too thick, you can add a little water to thin it out and it will apply much easier.

How to use:  A good quality clean soft paintbrush is the key.  If you do not use a good brush or have too much varathane on your brush, it will cause streaks.  Apply several very thin coats, allowing to dry thoroughly in between.  You might still notice a bit of streaking after the first coat but that will eventually lesson after each application.  After your pieces are dry, you can harden your finish a little more by baking your pieces at 200 F for 12-15 minutes.  This also helps get rid of any small streaks that might still be showing.

Pro:  Dries very quickly between coats and leaves a nice finish.

Con:  Not so good on items with a lot of mica powder, chalks or inks as a sealer.

Type of Finish:  semi-gloss to satin

Update:  December 2023

OK -- the product "Future" or changed to "Pledge with Future" is no longer available -- again!  But there is good news for other "Future" lovers like myself!   I have found a new product replacement and you can see it here in my latest blogpost:  "The Future is Clear".

The other type of glaze we use is Future -- which is now called Pledge with Future.  You can see by the photo that I still have the old style bottle and how little we've used over the past 5 years or so!  A little of this goes a long ways and one bottle will seem to last forever!

This is our preference when we want our pieces to have a permanent high shine.  We especially prefer to use it on pieces that require more wear and tear like pens or mirror compacts.  If our pieces have mica powders, inks or chalks applied, we generally spray them first with the PYM11 and then coat with Future to add the shine and add a little more protection.

How to use:  You can use a clean soft dry paintbrush or some people like to use q-tips.  Both work good but I prefer a brush.  Apply several thin coats, allowing to dry thoroughly in between.  Future takes a little longer to dry so takes a little more patience.  I found that if you apply the next coat too soon, it leaves a lot of streaks so I have to wash it off or sand it and start all over so is best to allow to dry completely between coats.

You can also harden your finish more by baking again afterwards at 200 F for 12-15 minutes.  This also helps to bring out a little more shine.

Pro:  Makes a good hard finish and works well for sealing pieces when using mica powders, chalks, etc. as well as long wearing items such as pens (see note below).  Should also mention that it has a very nice and pleasant smell.

Con:  Very time consuming as several coats need to be applied with lots of drying time between coats.

Type of Finish:  glossy to super glossy

Note:  Working with mica powder pigments

If you are using mica powders to your piece, they must be applied on raw clay before baking or they will not stick.  Rub the powders into the clay with your finger rather than just "dusting" them on with a brush to make them "stick".

After baking, wipe off any excess powders with a soft dry cloth.  If there are any loose mica powders on the piece they can prevent it from being sealed.

You can then continue with applying your favorite sealant.  If you want it to be more durable, spray with PYM11 first, allow to dry and then apply several coats of Future Acrylic or Glaze.

If you are using the brand "Pearl-Ex", you do not have to seal as they contain a resin, however, if you apply future acrylic or some form of glaze afterwards, the colors will "pop" more.


I hope this helps answer some questions you might have regarding finishing your pieces.  Feel free to ask any questions or leave other tips and tricks in the comments here.