Storing and Organizing my Pantone Clay Colors

Fall is just around the bend and I am back to mixing up the seasonal colors for the latest Pantone palette.  The hardest thing I find with mixing up the new line of colors is that some of the current ones I am not quite ready to give up yet.  So I will add those favorites to my permanent collection in my "Clay Color System".  I have a unique way of storing my Pantone clay colors for each season.

I am normally not a fan or big shopper at the Michael's Store but I do like some of their storage containers and many of them are made in the type of plastic that is compatible with the clay (you have to test first to be sure).  In my studio I have these photo cases that I keep many of my "canes" or clay veneers organized.  You can buy them individually or the best deal is the case that contains 16 for a special price.  I have lots in the clear that works well for seeing what is inside easily but I also like the multi-colored ones (as in the photo shown above) so I can coordinate with my clay colors and find the ones I want quicker.

These photo boxes fit perfectly in the media storage shelf that I have next to my clay mixing table.  Each season I add the latest Pantone colors to the photo boxes and arrange them on my shelf so they are handy.  You can see the latest fall colors here which I will be sharing the recipes for very soon!  I also like to keep my favorite colors from previous seasons there as well along with colors I use the most, including my base mixes. 

I generally like to use these containers to keep any prepared clay veneers or pieces for later use.  I cut up acetate sheets (same sheets used for laminating) in 4"x6" rectangles so I can stack several layers inside a box.  The circles below, for instance are ready to use for my interchangeable snaps or as earrings.

Of course I do not keep all my clay color recipes in these boxes as that would require hundreds! But they are great when I mix up large batches of my favorite colors and such.  And if you do not have shelf space to keep them, you can always use the storage case that they come in as well.

So I will be sharing the Pantone Fall Fashion Colors with you in the next day or so.  If you want a head start, here is a clue:  Check out the labels on the cases that show the 10 colors in the photo above.  Two of the colors are close matches to colors used in previous Pantone palettes.  Just do a search in the bar of this blog to find them.

Creating Your Own Faux Gemstones with Resin - Part 2

Working with resin can be a lot of fun once you get into it.  To make things go smoothly, it helps to be organized and everything laid out ready to go before you start mixing as you only have around 45 minutes to complete everything before it starts to thicken.  I like to set a timer for the first 30 minutes so I have a warning to speed up my process a bit if I haven't used it all up yet and have another 10-15 minutes before it starts to thicken.  I find at times I can underestimate how far my resin can go and rather than waste it, I like to have lots of items prepped and ready to fill just in case.

You can see in the above photo how I keep my small items such as snaps, earrings and buttons level while filling with the resin and during the curing process.  These are just pieces of pegboard.  I cover them in tin foil to protect them from spills and as a safety precaution when using the torch for blasting air bubbles.

So here are a few more tips I would like to share with you when working with the Art Resin and various inclusions.  There are so many more ideas than what I show here and experimenting can be so much fun.

Work Area

It is good to cover your work area with paper or something that can be discarded when you are finished.  Resin and inclusions tend to spill all over and is the easiest way to keep your work space or home from damage or messes as a result.

If working with the German Glass Glitter, keep in mind that it is glass and can result in slivers so you want to be sure to clean up after around you, especially the floor area.

Faux Opals

I love the effect of the faux opals but they are a little more challenging to work with.  The material is very light and so therefore while curing the resin, they tend to float to the top.  When you are working with an inclusion that has these properties it works best if you do them in two stages.  There are two methods for this:  (sorry I didn't get a chance to take photos but will add later when I get the chance)

Method A

Mix the inclusion in with the resin to create a thick slurry.  Scoop the mixture into your bezel but only half filling it or allowing enough space on top to add a clear coat of resin to finish later.
** Please see Update at bottom of this page.

Method B

Add a small amount of resin to fill just the bottom of your piece.  Scoop some opal inclusion into your bezel, tapping off any excess.  The resin on the bottom will help keep most of it on the bottom.  You can then add a bit more resin on top to allow the opal mixture to settle.  Leave enough space on top to add a clear coat of resin to finish later.

After following either Method A or B and allowing to cure for at least 3 or 4 hours, top up your piece with clear resin.  You can also wait until the pieces are totally cured to finish off with the second coat.

Faux Cobalt Blue Opal - Earrings and Interchangeable Snap

Glitter as an Inclusion

Regular glitter can be used as an inclusion but keep in mind that most are very buoyant and just like the faux opals, they will float to the top so will need to be done in two stages as well by using either method A or B above.

I do find the glitters rather messy and like to fill my pieces over a clean sheet of paper.  Any excess can then be dumped back into the container without wasting.  Some of my glitter on the paper tends to get mixed so I collect a random mixture in another container to use later on.

Left over glitter mixture

German Glass Glitter

German Glass Glitter is real glass and doesn't react the same way as regular types of glitter.  Because it is less buoyant, it can be covered in resin all in one step as it will naturally settle to the bottom of your piece.  I like to follow method B (above) when filling my pieces with this inclusion.  When covering with more resin you can then fill it so it is nicely domed.

Crackle Effect

Crackled effects are popular among the polymer clay community and there are various techniques in creating it.  Whatever technique you like to use, it too can also be covered in resin to create a unique glass-like finish.  If using alcohol inks, you might not realize that they can fade over time if exposed to light (particular UV rays).  It is good to know that unlike most resins, Art Resin contains a UV resistant stabilizer which can prevent, or at least slow down the fading process.  I have more experimenting to do yet with this but is good to know if you like to use the inks to create your crackle effect.

To make the snaps shown below, I filled them first with a very thin layer of crackled clay.  They were then baked and cooled before covering with the Art Resin.

Faux Stained Glass

While stained glass isn't a gemstone, I felt this idea was suitable to share here.  The butterfly shown below was more a result from some experimenting I was doing with my left over resin.  Because this metal piece has no backing, I added packing tape to the back making sure it was stuck on really good so resin would not seep underneath.

To fill the piece, I mixed in some yellow glitter and a drop of yellow alcohol ink (be careful not to add too much or it will prevent the resin from curing.  I then filled some of the areas I wanted in yellow.  I then added some dark orange glitter to the mixture I still had left and then filled in the remaining spaces.

After the piece has cured the packing tape can be removed.  You can clean up the back after with "Goo Gone" to get rid of any sticky residue.  I have a link for it but found it for a much lower price in my local grocery store.

Faux Enamel

A faux enamel effect can be created by adding inclusions that are more opaque.  I have tried various inclusions such as mica pigment powders.  Just be careful not to add too much or it will prevent the resin from curing.  I usually add the tiniest amount and then see how it mixes up and then add a tiny bit more if necessary.  For these pieces I covered the back with packing tape as shown above.  I mixed up several colors in disposable cups and then played around filling in the various spaces.

For the large circles pendant, I hand drilled a hole in after the piece was cured.  I didn't want it to crack so I started with a small drill bit and then worked up to a larger size.  The drill vise shown here I found at Shades of Clay.  It fits various drill be sizes and is so handy.

Combining Inclusions

I sometimes like mixing different inclusions for a whole new effect.  These snaps were creating using the Silver German Glass Glitter and then sprinkling on some regular glitter on top to add a touch of color.

Or here are some other color combinations created using the German Glass Glitter.

German Glass Glitter - Left to Right:  Sky, Sky & Chartreuse, Chartreuse

And of course, don't forget about the various molds you can use with resin to create faux gemstones.  I haven't experimented to much with this yet but intend to in future.  I found these molds and was testing them out to see how they worked and love how clean they came out after curing.  These were made using the last bit of resin after filling the butterfly.  I am not quite sure how I will use or finish off these pieces yet but will share it with you when I do.

And if you are looking for some of the metal pieces I have been using on my blog, I have them available in my online store in the supplies section.  I recently added some new ones and have a limited supply only.

**Update on Working with the Faux Opals:
I have only used method B for the faux opals until now and I did not realize that the finished appearance between the two methods can be quite different.  Here is an example to show you.  The snap on the left was created using Method A and the one on the right Method B.

And the same here with these two pendants.  The one on the left I used Method B and the one on the right Method A.

You can see that with method A (mixing the faux opal in with the resin and then filling, creates a more "cloudy" appearance but is also "softer" than method B.  This isn't necessarily bad but important to know for the finished look you are aiming for.

Creating Your Own Faux Gemstones With Resin - Part 1

I've been working with resin for some time now and even though it is quite different than polymer clay, I am finding it has it's uses and the two combined make an awesome pair!

There are different types of resins on the market:  UV resin that is cured with a UV light and the two part that require mixing.  Art Resin is the 2 part epoxy type and I like to use it for two very good reasons:  It gives a crystal clear finish and is also safe to use as it is non-toxic.

Most people think of only using resin on polymer clay as a finish, but resin can be used in so many ways than just a glass like coating.  You can add various inclusions to create your own faux gemstones.  Here are some samples of inclusions I used with the Art Resin:

Left:  German Glass Glitter in Amethyst

Right:  Crystal Opal

Earrings and Decorative Snap in Cobalt Opal

The snaps shown below were filled with German Glass Glitter and Art Resin.  The snap on the left is in the color Sky and on the far right is Chartreuse.  For the snap in the center I used a combination of both colors.

These are the same snaps added to a bracelet and ring with a snap base for interchanging.

And here are some samples of this technique applied to polymer clay.  Adding crystals or stones to polymer clay will not stay in on their own so require some sort of glue (as in the hot fix type) and also embedding deep enough so they will be secure.   The nice thing about resin is it will stick to most things including polymer clay (which is porous) and metal.

The piece below was created using the bezel part of the Blocks & Dots CaBezel mold.  I used a dark navy colored clay and mounted it on a snap base for interchanging (see how this is done here).  After baking, I filled the center with Art Resin and Cobalt Opal.

Here I added some of the German Glass Glitter into the centers of the pieces I made using the small Holy CaBezel molds.  On some of them I left the resin inclusions slightly raised on top so it gave more of a druzy quartz stone appearance.

The heart pendant shown below was created from a mold I made using the same metal heart charm shown above.  I added mica powder to the raised areas to highlight the pattern.  After finishing and baking the piece first (important), I then added resin with the Silver German Glass Glitter and a touch of red glitter to the center bezel section to create a sort of faux gemstone look.

Tips On Working With Resin

Working with the Art Resin is quite easy and fun.  I do not want to get into all the details on how to work with it as there are already plenty of videos and other info available to you which you will find on the Shades of Clay site here and also the Art Resin site itself.  There is also instructions and tips on the brochure included with the product.

I will share a few basic tips, however, that I have learned on working with smaller and more intricate designs and shapes.  In my next blog post (part 2) I will share a little more in depth on the "how to".

How Much to Use?

If you are working only with smaller pieces to create faux gems or fill the snaps, you will find a little resin will go a long way.  I would purchase the smallest size bottles (8oz) to start and when mixing, use a small measurement to start such as 1/2 oz each of the resin and hardener as when the two combined will make a full 1 oz.  If you mix up too much, you might not be able to use it all up before it starts to harden but you can always mix up more later.

Tools

Here are the main items I like to use but you may come up with your own later.  Shown in the above photo clockwise:  (I have included links on some of the items listed).

Small Torch

-- Mine is the kitchen type for cooking -- be sure it has an on/off safety button.  This is used to get out any air bubbles.  Be careful if using it on polymer clay as it could burn your clay.  You only need to flash it very quickly and the bubbles will disappear instantly.  Shades of Clay also has a small pencil style available which is very handy.

Art Resin

-- I buy mine at Shades of Clay but available other places as well.

Syringe or "Pipettes"

-- Used for filling your resin into small areas.  These work best when the resin is freshly mixed and still runny.  After it starts to thicken, I switch to "scooping" with my stir stick.

Small Spoon & Tweezers

I use a small spoon for measuring and scooping out my inclusions.  Tweezers come in handy for holding small items, etc.

Coffee Stir Sticks

I use the wooden type for mixing my resin and also as a "scoop" to pour small amounts into my bezel settings.  They are quite long so I break them in half which also makes them easier to work with.

Small Disposable Cups

I like to use these for pouring in small amounts of mixed resin and adding inclusions to create my faux enamels or gemstones.  I will show you more on this in my next post.

Small Measuring Cup

These can be used for measuring and mixing your resin.  When measuring, I use a small measuring cup where I can add both the resin and hardener together rather than measuring separately.  You get a more accurate measurement this way and is less messy.  A silicone cup for measuring resin will also work.  I have one on order and will let you know how I like it after it arrives.

Metal Tray and Tin Foil

I have several large baking pans (cookie sheets) for baking my clay in the oven and found they also make a great tray for working with resin.  I cover them with tin foil to protect the surface and the metal pan and foil create a safe surface when using a torch for blasting any air bubbles.  I can then pick up my entire tray after if I have to move it to another area to harden.

And the last thing not shown is a large box or plastic container to cover your resin while it is curing.  This will prevent any dust settling during that process.

Items for Filling with Resin

And of course you will need all the various items you want to put your resin into.  You can use your own polymer clay designs to add your faux resin gemstones.  I also have other items shown here available in my online store.

Blank Snaps for Interchanging Designs

Stainless Steel Post Earrings with Bezel

Stainless Steel Bezel Charms

Stainless Steel Buttons

Large Metal Charms with Bezels

And these are some fun items I found at Shades of Clay that you could use as well.  I will share some samples of what I created with you soon.

Mirror Compact

Cool Key Chains

Bezel Jewelry Frames

And of course there are all the CaBezel Molds that are so cool.  The Bezel (frame) part can be made out of polymer clay and then after baking, filled with resin and various inclusions.

In my next post I will go into a little more detail on creating the various faux gemstones shown here with more inspiration.

My Experiences and Tips on Working with Panpastels on Polymer Clay

A unique feature with polymer clay is how it can take on so many forms and textures.  Various types of color such as mica powders can then be applied to bring out the pattern and I love the metallic and rich deep jewel-tone shades they give.

The other day we were making up some of our posie flower snaps and wanted to make them in brighter colors.  We pulled out the Panpastels and decided to experiment and we immediately loved the results!

I was wondering what else we could create and tested them out even more so made some scarf rings.

I really like the vivid and rich shades that the panpastels produce and I call them my happy colors!  After working with them for a bit I realized that they are a little different to work with compared to the mica powders and thought I would share some of the tips I learned with you.

I first purchased several sets of the Panpastels from Shades of Clay (see disclaimer below) which came in this clear palette along with several sponge type applicators.

My latest set came in a stack that all unscrew.  The bottom container held several more applicators.  I quite like storing them this way as they take up less space.

The first thing I discovered about the Panpastels is how they create rich colors on white or light colored clay.  They do not show up much, however on black clay which is the opposite to the mica powders.

I tried using my finger and found that it worked okay but the applicators work even better as they prevent loose powders from falling onto your piece where you do not want them.

Some applicators for the Panpastels

I found some eye shadow applicators at the dollar store and found they work as well and the foam ends felt like the same type of material.  They work really well when applying the pastels to smaller areas.

Eye Shadow Applicators

I first learned of Panpastels from Helen Breil who shares a video on how to work with them and use the applicator.  I didn't have the same success at first and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong so I did a little more research.  I have posted several other videos on my pinterest board if you would like to check them out.

One mistake I had made was loading too much pastel color on my foam applicator creating excess powder and resulting in it falling on my clay in areas I did not want.  I later learned that you load your applicator by lightly rubbing on the color by swiping back and forth only once or twice!

Clean applicator by wiping a few times on clean paper towel

Believe it or not, the applicator can be easily cleaned between colors by simply wiping it on a clean piece of paper towel.  Even if the applicator may appear to have a lot of color on it, you can load it in another color and it will not cross contaminate!  I could hardly believe it until I actually tested it out myself.  Just do not rub too hard or it will actually wear the foam part out.  You only need to swipe lightly a couple of times and you are good to go!

One other thing I really like about the Panpastels is unlike mica powders, the colors can mix and blend on the clay.  They work in the same way as if you were working with actual paint but in a creamy powder like form.

Here I am using an eye shadow applicator to apply some white Panpastels to a textured snowflake snap.  I used the Sculpey Soufle clay for these and even with the clay being so soft, the applicators are gentle enough to not mess up the texture.  

Adding white Panpastel color to textured Sculpey Soufle clay

Another tip when working with any type of powder, is if you are adding any (hot fix) crystals, be sure to add them first.  Any powder between the clay and crystal could interfere and prevent the glue from adhering to the clay.

Adding crystals to the clay before applying any powders

Check out my blog posts here and here for more tips on adding crystals to your clay designs.

My main concern with working with Panpastels was sealing them properly.  The first few pieces I made, I sprayed several times with the PYM11 (Preserve Your Memories 11).  I wasn't sure if that would be enough to seal them and it didn't matter to me if they were matte or glossy so I tried adding several types of glazes over top but found they all beaded up.  I decided to test the PYM11 out a little more and had noticed that the color was wearing off which obviously was not good.

Helen Breil recommends a glaze for the Panpastels -- Golden Polymer Varnish with UVLS.  I am happy to say that Shades of Clay now has it in stock as well.  It does work really well and is very easy to apply.  It is quite thick and they recommend thinning with water.  I do this by pouring a small amount into a little bowl and then spritz it a bit with my water spray bottle.  I add just enough water so it spreads easily but isn't too runny.

The Golden Polymer Varnish is also available in Gloss which can give almost a ceramic-like appearance.

I prefer the matte finish on certain items such as flowers and the snowflake designs.

Snowflake snaps and bracelet

Snowflake snaps in a necklace and earrings

I hope these tips will help you in working with the Panpastels and you have positive results.  If you have any questions or more tips to share, please feel free to comment.

Disclaimer:  (We are not benefiting from the mention or links to Shades of Clay.  We are only a regular and happy customer.)